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There are steaks and fresh fish dishes too, but those tacos are the real draw: they're South Dakota's greatest roadside food.

Chef Sarah Bradley's focus here is on Southern staples, familiar enough to scratch that comfort itch but prepared with an elegance and creativity that could only come from the mind of a culinary innovator.

But for beer and barbecue fans, it's cause for a full-on pilgrimage.

And thank God, because this place, sandwiched between Lake Maurepas and Lake Pontchartrain, serves up perhaps the tastiest fried catfish on Earth: cut paper thin, fried crisp, and seasoned in a way that allows the batter and the flaky meat to work in some weird, crunchy harmony.